THE GOLDEN SPURTLE
Australia, 2024, 77 minutes, Colour.
Directed by Constantine Conti.
A very enjoyable documentary story, a Scottish story but the film made by Australians.
And the title? Not spittle, rather, spurtle. And Wikipedia to our aid:
A spurtle is a traditional Scottish wooden stick used for stirring porridge and other foods like soups and stews. Its rod-like shape allows for effective stirring without creating lumps in porridge, and it won't scratch pots. The spurtle dates back to at least the 15th century and its name likely comes from the Scots language.
And a practical PS. Maintenance: Should be washed and dried by hand; it is not dishwasher-safe.
So, the revelation is porridge. Not up there with the world’s top gourmet delicacies, not a top priority for chefs. But, morning by morning, especially in Scotland and those with Scottish breakfast traditions, an essential.
In the 1990s, in the small Scottish town of Carrbridge, concerned citizen thinking about tourism and its decline after the summer season, decided that a cooking festival might be an answer. And the focus, porridge. And the competition with the story of this film, is 30 years old, drawing the locals, of course, but international competitors, wide ranging from Cyprus, Zimbabwe, Canada and Toby Wilson from Australia.
Right from the start, introductions to so many of the locals, pleasantly talking to camera, the creator, the chieftain, the 25 years dishwasher, we realise that this is all very nice, rather quaint, quite sweet, really, and showing the best of human nature. Any competitiveness is very amiable, no envy, no criticisms, everyone friendly and polite. Audiences will enjoy being introduced to so many of these genial characters.
The film builds up some tension, starting weeks before the competition, helping us get to know the local characters, the visitors, their motivations and ambitions in turning their hand to porridge, and the actual making of a spurtle, the woodwork, the carving, the finished trophy, in gold. A week to go, three days to go, two days to go and the day itself, pouring rain despite someone’s comment that it doesn’t rain so much at Carrbridge!
Actually it is a very folksy event, a marquee, the local hall, the stoves, “burners”, everybody in the ordinary workaday clothes, except the two officials with coat and tie and kilts.
The audience watches, the 30 competitors take their ingredients, their pots, their spurtles, their burners, lots of stirring, testing – several heats for eliminations and a final six. And, a closed-door room with three judges tasting, commenting, relishing. And the judgement and the award. While the judges work, the locals offer, with a big screen, explanations of whiskey, the local “Mecca of malt”, Scottish songs…
And, very practical, everybody helping with taking the marquee down, folding it, and someone mopping the hall floor.
These review words describe what happens – but, it is a very enjoyable to see it all up there on the screen. Wholesome and nourishing entertainment in every sense!
